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Archive-name: birds-faq/optics Last-modified: 17 February 1995 Posting-frequency: monthly Frequently Asked Questions about Optics for Birding February 1995 Copyright (c) 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995 by Edmund R. Matthews. Permission is granted to make single fair use copies for personal use. Any other uses or reproduction of the material in this FAQ is forbidden without express written consent from the author. This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about optics for birding. This FAQ started as a monthly posting to the Internet news group rec.birds. I now post it monthly to rec.birds and the BIRDCHAT mailing list on or about the 15th of the month. I also distribute it to several bulletin boards and WWW sites around the world. I limit information about specific brands and models of optical equipment to published reviews that are more or less objective. While I welcome comments from readers about their favorite equipment, I do not publish owner testimonials as a matter of policy. I remove information about various brands once that information is more than 3 years old. Send any comments, suggestions, or additions to Ed Matthews <edm@aib.com>. I do not receive rec.birds or BIRDCHAT, so I do not see discussion on the net. Please forward any appropriate mail to me. Notes ===== Can you identify this? The info on roof and porro prisms came from an article in Audubon by Charles A. Bergman entitled "The Glass of Fashion". The photocopy of the article had no date or volume number, but the page numbers are 74-80. I have been changing some of the more colloquial English to more straightforward English because in the last several months, this FAQ has been distributed to a huge audience of non-native English speakers. If you have difficulty understanding a particular part of this FAQ, let me know and I will try to write it to be more easily understood. Summary of Changes Since Last Publication ========================================= [As always, change bars '|' mark significant changes] 2. reorganized the FAQs by category 2.1.1 some information on pupil gauges 2.2.7 new recommendation for inexpensive binoculars 2.3.4 What are catadioptric scopes? <new question> 3.1 new discussion of tripod and head characteristics 3.1 new discussion of Davis & Sanford Magnum tripod Deleted the following sections -- too old to be useful: 4.4 British Birds (Owner Survey, Binoculars and Scopes, July 1991) 4.5 Living Bird Quarterly (Scopes -- Autumn 1990) 5. added Adorama Camera to list of suppliers 5. added Los Angeles Audubon Society Bookstore to list of suppliers 5. added Mirakel Optical Co to list of suppliers 5. added SA Wentling Co to list of suppliers 5. deleted Yoder from list of suppliers for want of information 6. deleted references more than 3 years old 6. revised information about Better View Desired Table of Contents ================= 1. General Advice 2. Common Questions About Optics | 2.1 General Questions About Optics | 2.1.1 What does 7x35 mean? | 2.1.2 How do I chose a magnification level? | 2.1.3 What is field-of-view? | 2.1.4 What is eye relief? | 2.1.5 What should I know about lens coatings? | 2.1.6 What are fluorite and ED glass? | 2.1.7 What factors affect brightness in optical instruments? | 2.2 Questions About Binoculars | 2.2.1 What is the difference between roof and porro prism binoculars? | 2.2.2 How do I judge comparable binoculars? | 2.2.3 What other factors should I consider in buying binoculars? | 2.2.4 How close should I be able to focus? | 2.2.5 How can I hold my binoculars steady? | 2.2.6 How can I find birds quickly with my binoculars? | 2.2.7 Which inexpensive binoculars would you recommend to a beginner? | 2.3 Questions About Scopes | 2.3.1 What about fixed versus zoom eyepieces for scopes? | 2.3.2 What about 45 degree eyepieces for scopes? | 2.3.3 Can I take photgraphs through a scope? | 2.3.4 What are catadioptric scopes? | 2.4 Miscellaneous Questions | 2.4 What about rubber armoring? | 2.5 Can I use binoculars and scopes with eyeglasses? | 2.13 What does the endorsement of the National Audubon Society mean? | 2.14 How should I clean my lenses? 3. Supports 3.1 Tripods 3.2 Monopods 3.3 Finnsticks 3.4 Shoulder Stocks 3.5 Window Mounts 4. Ratings and Comparisons 4.1 Binocular Comparison Chart (ABA Sales Catalog -- Fall 1994) 4.2 Better View Desired (Scopes and Binoculars -- November 1993) 4.3 Living Bird (Binoculars -- Autumn 1992) 5. Sources for Optical Equipment 6. Useful Reference Material 7. Contributors 1. General Advice ================= Do not buy any optical equipment without first field testing it, especially if you wear glasses. Go to a popular birding spot and ask to try various scopes and tripods. This is the only way to determine individual preferences such as weight, balance, and desirable magnification level. | If you are going to buy new binoculars, you should read the excellent | essay entitled "Bird Worthy Binoculars" in the November 1994 issue of | _Better View Desired_ (q.v.). Owners of most tripod brands report loose parts and some report rust. Tripods, like any other equipment with moving parts, require periodic tightening and cleaning. A good strap on a scope or binoculars increases comfort dramatically. The new breed of neoprene straps from OP/TECH come highly recommended. They are available from most optics merchants and camera shops. 2. Common Questions About Optics ================================ 2.1 General Questions About Optics 2.1.1 What does 7x35 mean? The first number (7) is the magnification (or power). The second (35) is the size in millimeters of the objective lens (or aperture). The objective lens is the large lens through which the light first enters the binocular or scope. A magnification of 7 means that the object in view appears 7 times closer. Larger magnification does not imply better optics. Objective lens size is a key factor in how much light enters the instrument. To determine the relative brightness of an instrument, divide the objective lens size by the magnification (e.g., 35mm/7 = 5mm). Optical instruments cease to be brighter when this measure, called the exit pupil, exceeds the size of your pupil. All other variables being constant, the larger the exit pupil, the brighter and more useful the instrument. As you age, your pupil does not dilate as much as when you are younger. By age 40, your pupil dilates to a maximum of about 5mm. Buying | binoculars with a larger exit pupil is a waste of money. Sky Publishing | Corporation of Belmont, MA, USA sells a pupil gauge (US$4) that lets you | measure the exact width of your pupil. If exit pupil were the only factor in brightness, your choice would be easy. However, the quality of the glass and its coatings (q.v.) play a large part in determining brightness. You will find that good 10x40 (4mm exit pupil) binoculars are generally brighter than cheap 7x35 (5mm exit pupil) binoculars. Birders who try to see pelagic birds on an active ocean find their binoculars move around a lot with respect to their eyes, especially if they wear eyeglasses. An over large exit pupil helps keep a bird in view as they bounce around on the tossing deck, with the binoculars in one hand and the other hand holding onto the boat itself. 2.1.2 How do I chose a magnification level? The lower the magnification (power), the shorter the effective range of the instrument. As a payoff, you get a brighter image and a wider field-of-view. The higher the power, the harder the instrument is to hold steady, the less bright the image, and the narrower the field-of-view (q.v.). Brightness is inversely related to the square of the power: doubling the power reduces brightness to a fourth. For binoculars, common magnification levels are 7x, 8x, and 10x. Good quality optics are generally more important than magnification level. | And, you must be able to hold the binoculars steady. I don't have | any problems holding 10x binoculars steady, but many people do. For scopes, the most popular range is between 20x and 40x. Distortion from heat shimmer becomes a limiting factor over 40x. Lower than 20x limits the useful range of the scope. The power of an instrument is the focal length of the main objective divided by the focal length of the eyepiece. For instance, a scope with a main objective of 900mm focal length and eyepiece of 30mm focal length is 30x (900/30). Focal length is related to focal ratio. The focal ratio of a lens is is focal length divided by it aperture. If this scope also had a 90mm objective lens, its focal ratio is 900/90 or f/10. In simplistic terms, the focal length of a simple, thin lens is the distance from the lens that it focuses the object. For example, a lens with a 30mm focal length would focus its image 30mm behind the lens. 2.1.3 What is field-of-view? Field-of-view (FOV) is how much horizontal view you can see through an optical instrument. The following diagram illustrates field of view: w w \---------+---------/ w = length of the side of the triangle \ b|b / formed by side d, angle a, and \ | / right angle b \ | / \ |d / w = FOV/2 as a linear measurement \ | / a = FOV/2 as an angular measurement \ | / w = d * tan(a) \ | / \a|a/ \|/ FOV is expressed in one of two forms: a linear width (2 * w) at a given distance (d) or as an angle (2 * a). Both forms are common. In the US, the linear form is expressed as feet in view at 1000 yards. In the metric world, the linear form is expressed as meters in view at 1000 meters. The angular form expresses that portion of a circle (360 degrees) that is visible. The angle is constant with distance. Typical angular FOV measurements are between 5 and 8.5 degrees. In many cases, the actual FOV may be markedly different than what the manufacturer claims it is. To compare the FOV of binoculars with different magnification levels, compute the "apparent FOV". This is the angular FOV multiplied by the magnification. Typical values range from 45 to 75 degrees with most being between 50 and 65. Other things being equal, wider FOV is generally better than narrower FOV for helping you find birds more easily. Of course, other things seldom are equal, and you generally must pay for wide FOV some other way: lower resolution, lower magnification, less eye relief, greater weight, or higher cost. 2.1.4 What is eye relief? Eye relief is the distance between the eyepiece and your cornea when you are seeing the full illuminated circle of the image, the sensation of "looking through" the scope or binoculars. You can determine empirically the eye relief of binoculars by holding them steady in a shaded location pointed at a bright sky or surface. Hold white paper behind the eyepiece and you will see a bright disc of light on the paper. This is the exit pupil as discussed earlier. Move the paper until the disc is sharpest; this is the precise location of the exit pupil in space. The distance between the eyepiece and the paper is the eye relief. If you wear glasses, eye relief is critical because you must have enough room to get your glasses between the lens and the focal plane. Even if you do not wear glasses, a reasonable amount of eye relief helps keep the instrument far enough from the eye for comfort. However, high eye relief designs may give non-eyeglass wearers the sensation that they need to move their eyes far back from the eyepiece. In general, shorter focal length eyepieces have shorter eye relief. High eye relief designs are usually more expensive. Also, higher magnification generally means less eye relief; scope users may have noticed this in changing eyepieces. Many eyepieces in wide-angle binoculars have low eye relief as a consequence of their design, something to remember and test if you are considering buying a wide-angle binocular. The ABA catalogs (q.v.) are good about listing eye relief figures for most eyepieces and state what they consider minimum. Celestron [Vixen in Europe] (and perhaps other astronomically oriented) scopes have optional Barlow lenses that may be of interest to eyeglass wearers. A Barlow lens is a long metal tube that attaches instead of the eyepiece. The eyepiece goes onto this tube, thus extending the physical length of the scope and effectively increasing the focal length of the objective lens. The beauty of the Barlow lens is that it increases power (about 2x) while letting you continue to use the same eyepiece with which you are comfortable, a big bonus for eyeglasses wearers. A couple of readers recommend the Barlows from Astrophysics. Drawbacks are that the overall length of the scope is increased, increasing the chances of damage in the field and making the scope a bit more awkward. Barlow lenses are not common, nor are they suitable for quick changes in the field. Still, in a fixed setting such as nest watching, the fact you can double the power and preserve the eye relief is significant. Also, several scope manufacturers offer long eye relief eyepieces by various names. Celestron/Vixen calls their 20mm eye relief eyepieces LV (Long View). 2.1.5 What should I know about lens coatings? Low-reflection coatings (generally of magnesium fluoride) increase the light transmitted through binoculars by increasing contrast, reducing glare, and eliminating reflections. For best results, all glass surfaces where the beam of light moves from air into glass or from glass into air should be coated. Cheap binoculars sometimes only have coatings on the outside surfaces, in an attempt to impress and confuse the gullible buyer. The best coatings are called "multi-coatings", or something similar; they are better simply because a multi-coated surface reflects less light than one with a conventional coating. You can notice the difference between single- and multi-coatings particularly when viewing birds in shade when the field of view also includes brightly lit objects (i.e., extreme contrast). It is hard to tell what surfaces of a binocular are coated, and with what kind of coatings, just by looking at them. For this reason alone, you should buy from a well-respected manufacturer and from a reputable dealer. 2.1.6 What are fluorite and ED glass? Optics manufacturers use fluorite (CaF2) and ED glass in the fabrication of the objectives (front lenses) of telescopes to reduce longitudinal chromatic aberration, which causes a purplish blur around high-contrast objects (such as stars or planets) when observed at high power, even when they are in the exact center of the field of view. This problem is different from the one that causes colored fringes around telephone lines, etc., near the edges of the field of view. This second problem is called chromatic difference of magnification, or lateral color, and is more the result of eyepiece design than of glass composition. Contrary to the manufacturer's marketing literature, at the relatively low magnifications that birders use, the added benefit of fluorite or ED glass is likely unnoticeable. Fluorite is susceptible to attack by water -- it dissolves slowly -- so if you use your telescope in circumstances when there is probability of fog, rain or condensation getting on the optics, you may be in for an expensive surprise. Most objectives do not have the fluorite as the outer component of the lens; it is inside where it has some protection. 2.1.7 What factors affect brightness in optical instruments? Have you noticed that the warbler in the bush at dusk that you can see with binoculars practically disappears without them? The effect is profound and many people believe this is because binoculars and telescopes act as "light buckets" that collect light over a large area, effectively enlarging their eyes. This is true, but the magnification of the lens spreads the light over a larger area and the apparent brightness "per square degree" is no more than with the naked eye. What is really happening is that the lens is enlarging the object without making it fainter. Higher quality optics increase apparent brightness by eliminating reflections. This effect can be substantial, but probably does not cause a dramatic difference in brightness between two pairs of binoculars. The dominant factor is the exit pupil (q.v) which, if smaller than the diameter of your pupil, will decrease brightness. Another factor is contrast, which does not increase brightness but does give the appearance of a brighter view. Lens coatings (q.v.) generally improve contrast. 2.2 Questions About Binoculars 2.2.1 What is the difference between roof and porro prism binoculars? [from Charles A. Bergman, _Audubon_ magazine] "But how do binoculars present an upright image to the viewer? ...An Italian named M. Porro invented the first prismatic inverting system in the middle of the nineteenth century...Porro's system consists of two identical prisms in each barrel of the binocular, placed at right angles to each other. Each prism looks rather like one of Napoleon's hats, the bicorne. Like mirrors, each prism reflects and reverses the light off its steep sides. One prism reverts the image left to right and the other prism inverts the image top to bottom. With an acrobat's grace, the image somersaults through the binoculars, springing to our eyes, normal and erect, a natural perspective. Roof prisms were invented in the nineteenth century, in the optical workshop of Carl Zeiss at Jena, Germany. A young professor of physics at the University of Jena, Ernst Abbe, formulated the mathematical laws for the paths of light through microscopes. Together with the chemist Otto Schott, he also invented the first high-quality, reproducible optical glass. At age twenty-six, he became director of research for Zeiss. Using his own mathematics and glass -- both historical contributions to the optical industry -- Abbe created not only the microscopes of Louis Pasteur, but also a pentaprism, the "Abbe roof prism". Abbe's roof prism was the progenitor of a vast array of modern roof prisms. Inside, roof prisms juggle the light rays through an invisible labyrinth of angles, a convoluted path, a mathematical marvel. On the outside, a roof-prism binocular is elegant in its simplicity." Neither design has a performance advantage over the other -- they are simply two different designs. Modern roof prism binoculars tend to have two separate prisms that are cemented together, rather than two offset prisms as in the porro prism design. What this means for birders is: o Roof prisms, because of the engineering required, are more expensive. o Binoculars containing roof prisms are generally much more compact. o Porro prism binoculars are more susceptible than roof prisms to alignment problems if dropped. 2.2.2 How do I judge comparable binoculars? When judging binoculars, you should know what properties the power and aperture (e.g., 7x50) fix, as opposed to other parameters that are the consequence of good design (e.g., long eye relief). If you know the power and aperture, the following are fixed, and the most expensive pair of that type will have the same value as an inexpensive pair: Exit pupil diameter or "apparent brightness" Depth of field, i.e., range in which objects appear in focus at given distance Faintest stars visible, determined by aperture only (indep. of power) Optical quality and design affect: Eye relief (tends to be longer in lower power binocs) Image contrast (because of number and quality of coated surfaces) Apparent field of view (cannot be large if eye relief is long) Image sharpness across field (harder in wide field binocs) Closest focus (tends to be closer in low power binocs) Here are several examples: 7x35's are about as "bright" as 8x40's. Two 7x50's could have radically different eye relief. If one pair has a wide apparent field, it probably has shorter eye relief. A large pair of 20x70's will have a less bright image than a small pair of 8x32's. That same 20x70 probably does not focus as close as the 8x32. 2.2.3 What other factors should I consider in buying binoculars? You should consider how you are going to use and treat them. Consider the following questions: o If you have an expensive pair of binoculars, will you be afraid to take them with you? o Do you plan to store the binoculars in your car so they will always be with you? o Can you carry them easily when hiking, biking, or cross-country skiing? Perhaps you want a second pair for this? o Do you plan to use them in extremely humid/wet environments? o Do the binoculars fit your hands? Binoculars and people come in different shapes and sizes. o Do the lens caps remain attached? Can you remove them easily? | o How much travel does the focus wheel have? If you have to make | several revolutions to go from closest focus to farthest focus, you | may not be happy. 2.2.4 How close should I be able to focus? [Paraphrased from _The Complete Birder_, Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1988, by Jack Connor] Binoculars with close-focus are essential for woodland birding. You can visually separate several problematic pairs of small birds only at close range. Fortunately, you can test close-focus in a store. Find the closest spot on the floor you can see sharply through the binoculars, then count your paces as you walk to it. For an accurate test, first adjust the dioptric-compensation ring for the difference in strengths of your two eyes. Without first doing this, your test will be inaccurate. A close-focus range of 15 to 18 feet (5 to 5.5m) is the least you should accept. If you like chasing sparrows and warblers, you'll be happier with a minimum range of about 10 feet (3m). Depending on your eyes, you can find binoculars with close-focus ranges down to 6 feet (2m). To focus even closer than normal, focus as close as the binocular allows. Then use the dioptric-compensation ring to focus a bit closer. This approach, while useful for emergencies, has drawbacks: your binoculars are now a monocular, you have disturbed your normal dioptric-compensation ring setting, and if you cannot make the adjustment on the side of your dominant eye, you may need to cover your dominant eye. 2.2.5 How can I hold my binoculars steady? [Jay Freeman offers this tip in Ronnie Kon's Purchasing Amateur Telescopes FAQ on sci.astro.] Most people hold a binocular with one hand on each side of the body -- roughly where the prisms are. The hands are directly left and right of the center of gravity of the instrument. For most people, there is a better position. Hold the binocular as described above. Slide your hands toward your face, until only your pinky and ring fingers (third and fourth) are curled around the back end of the binocular body. The binocular will feel a little nose-heavy, because you are supporting it behind its center of gravity. Curl each thumb up as if you were making a fist, and flex your hands so that the second bone in from the tip of your thumb is pressed against your cheekbone. Finally, curl the first and middle fingers of each hand around the corresponding binocular eyepiece. You will have your hands as though you are peering into a bright window at night. Your hands will make a solid structural connection between the body of the binocular, through your hands and thumbs, to your face, and markedly improves how steadily you can hold the instrument. If this out-of-balance position becomes tiring, move one hand out to the objective end of its side of the binocular, so that you are supporting the instrument on opposite sides of its center of gravity. When you get tired, switch hands. 2.2.6 How can I find birds quickly with my binoculars? Here are some tips from experienced birders: 1. Memorize how you turn the focus wheel to focus closer or farther. 2. Remember at all times how far away you last focused. 3. After looking at a bird, refocus for where you expect the next bird. In the woods, this is close. On the beach, this is farther out. 4. Start focusing before the binoculars get to your eyes. 5. Make a mental note of where the bird is: "third branch to the right against yellow leaves." Vegetation looks different with and without binoculars. 6. Keep looking at the bird while raising the binoculars into your line of sight. 7. Practice, practice, practice 2.2.7 Which inexpensive binoculars would you recommend to a beginner? Many people consider the Bushnell Birder 7x35 a great buy at US$75 or under. 2.3 Questions About Scopes | If you are in the market to purchase your first scope, remember to save | enough to buy a good tripod and head. Refer to section 3.1. 2.3.1 What about fixed versus zoom eyepieces for scopes? Fixed magnification eyepieces tend to give a crisper and brighter image. Zooms can be useful, but unless you spend a lot of money, they can be of lesser quality than fixed lenses. Some birders prefer interchangeable fixed lenses (e.g., a 25x lens and a 40x lens) to a zoom. Zooms on the expensive scopes (e.g., Kowa) are excellent. 2.3.2 What about 45 degree eyepieces for scopes? They are not hard to use when you get used to them and are preferable for watching flying birds, especially migrating raptors. If you are tall, you can use a slightly shorter tripod. If you are short, the lower scope gives more opportunity for somebody to step in your way. A drawback is that the eyepiece is angled up into the rain and blowing dust. You can always rotate 45 degree eyepieces 90 degrees to the left or right to get them out of the rain. 2.3.3 Can I take photographs through a scope? General consensus is that if you want to take professional photographs, do not use your scope. It requires a steady (heavy) tripod and the combo of scope and camera is heavy and awkward. Focusing is difficult and close focusing is not generally possible. Scopes usually have a fixed, small aperture (typically f11). This means that you must adjust exposures by varying the shutter speed. With a small aperture, and a fast enough shutter speed to keep the bird from blurring, you must use fast film, even in bright sun. In early morning and late evening, or in shady woods, you simply will not have enough light to take a good photograph. Some scope/camera combinations also have problems with vignetting: the rim of the scope is visible in the photograph as a dark, fuzzy ring around the edge. [Paraphrased from the Canon EOS FAQ on rec.photo by Bob Atkins] In general, scopes are too slow and their focal lengths are too long. The longer the focal length, the steadier you must hold the lens and the more atmospheric effects will degrade the image. The only scopes capable of yielding high quality images are the fast, short focal length, apochromatic refractors. For example, TeleVue makes a 500mm f5 apochromatic telescope using Fluorite lens elements. It makes a good lens (manual focus, fixed aperture), but costs US$1700, weighs 10lbs+ (4.5k+) and is about 36" (92cm) long. While not easy, you can use it in the field with a heavy tripod. Its performance as a lens is similar to the best telephoto lenses; however, it has several drawbacks. It has no autofocus; you cannot stop it down; and it is big and heavy. | 2.3.4 What are catadioptric scopes? [Sorry -- I ran out of time this month. Feel free to send contributions for next month's edition.] 2.4 Miscellaneous Questions 2.4.1 Is rubber armoring useful? Binoculars and scopes are more and more often clad in rubber -- this is known as rubber armoring. Rubber armoring provides protection against corrosion and dirt, helps cushion blows to the instrument, and gives a less slippery surface to grip. Armoring adds a little weight and may require maintenance with a rubber preservative. Many feel rubber preservatives leave a greasy feeling. 2.4.2 Can I use binoculars and scopes with eyeglasses? You certainly can; however, DO NOT BUY BINOCULARS OR SCOPES WITHOUT TESTING THEM WITH YOUR GLASSES. Some people like to use their binoculars without their glasses. There is no harm in this. However, if you have astigmatism, you need your glasses to help you focus, even with the binoculars (which only increase magnification). People who wear eyeglasses often have trouble with scopes and binoculars. Try several models with your glasses. The critical factor if you wear glasses is eye relief (q.v.). Look for eye relief of at least 15mm. Because eye relief is a property of eyepiece design, you cannot change the eye relief of binoculars. Several scopes offer optional long-relief eyepieces -- Kowa's are excellent. One exception is the Bausch & Lomb Elite scopes with fixed lenses; they come with long-relief eyepieces as standard equipment. 2.4.3 What does the endorsement of the National Audubon Society mean? The NAS has licensed their logo to certain manufacturers and the logo appears on certain optical products. The appearance of the logo does not constitute any endorsement by NAS. The logo presumably indicates that the product is targetted at birders; however, it does not mean that it is any better than competing products from other manufacturers. 2.4.4 How should I clean my lenses? [From a Celestron manual:] "Always determine whether or not your telescope needs cleaning. Specks of dust or pieces of lint do not impair the visual or photographic performance of your telescope, but excessive cleaning can cause small scratches which harm performance more than lint or dust. These scratches cause light scattering, which is VERY harmful to optical performance. Professional telescopes used nightly, only need cleaning every six months or so." A good cleaning solution is a mixture of isopropypyl alcohol and distilled water with a few drops of biodegradable washing detergent. Do not use breath, saliva, or commercial solutions for cleaning eyeglasses lenses. These solutions contain silicones which can be difficult to remove from lenses. Use cotton balls of natural cotton or lens tissue to clean lenses. Use fresh cotton balls or tissue often. Never clean in circles to prevent making scratches all over the optics. Never rub or apply pressure. Clean from the center to the edge of the lens; take another piece of cotton or tissue and repeat. If your lenses have dried on salt spray, gently wet the salt deposits with damp cotton or tissue and allow the deposits to soften before cleaning normally. To avoid frequent cleanings, always store your lens with the cap on. If your lenses are scratched, consider contacting the manufacturer of your binoculars or scope to enquire about having the lenses polished and recoated. This may prove less expensive than buying new equipment. For further information, refer to "Tools of the Trade", William Van Meter, _Birding_, June 1988. 3. Supports =========== Supports for birding with binoculars and scopes come in several forms: tripods, monopods, Finnsticks, shoulder stocks, and window mounts. 3.1 Tripods =========== | A good tripod is as important as a good scope. If you have a flimsy | tripod, it does not matter how good your scope is; you will not get a good | image. Also, in addition to purchasing a tripod, you must generally | purchase the head separately. The head sits on top of the tripod, carries | the scope, and rotates. If you are going to spend the money for a good | scope, be prepared to spend US$200-300 on a good tripod and head. | | Characteristics of good birding tripods are: 1) heavy, to minimize | vibrations in the wind, 2) light, to facilitate easy transportation, 3) | compact, again to facilitate easy transportation, 4) tall enough to | allow comfortable viewing for long periods, 4) quick to set up and take | down, and 5) independently adjustable legs for rough terrain. As you | can see, a birding tripod is a compromise between too much and too | little weight and between compactness and height. Fortunately, all the | tripods listed below meet these criteria, more or less. | | Characteristics of good heads are: 1) heavy, to minimize vibrations, 2) | positive mounting system, to minimize vibration, 3) adjustable friction, | (you want to move the head at will, but you want it to stay still | otherwise), 4) two degrees of freedom (pivots up-and-down and side-to-side), | 5) quick to mount and unmount scope. Owners of most tripod brands report loose parts and some report rust. Tripods are like any other equipment: they require some preventative maintenance. The large majority of US readers use one of two tripods, the Bogen 3021 or the Davis & Sandford RTS. Gitzo also makes fine tripods which are popular among professional photographers. Here's a tip for all you tripod thunkers. To minimize the thunk of the tripod when you open it, hold it horizontally, then pull out and lock the legs. The birds and your fellow birders will appreciate it. If you have problems with vibration, you can hang a heavy object beneath your tripod to give it more stability and quicker damping time. Astronomy catalogs sell aluminum and rubber gadgets that reduce vibration times by about 3x for about US$40. Bogen (manufactured by Manfrotto) Model 3021 (Manfrotto 55) is most popular with birders; lesser models are not sturdy enough; larger models are overkill. With the micro-fluid head, it weighs about 8 pounds (3.5k) without scope, so it requires a strap for carrying. However, the weight makes for a steady scope in the wind. The quick release plate for the micro-fluid head is nice, especially for switching between scope and camera. The quick-release leg levers are handy, but take some strength to operate and have a reputation for coming loose. A few birders report tripod collapse as a result. The levers can catch twigs, hair, and binocular straps. Legs can open noisily if not careful. Good height for tall birders. Replacement parts are readily available (see ABA sales). With proper maintenance, owners are generally happy with this tripod. Davis & Sanford (manufactured by Tiffen) Davis & Sanford/Tiffen tripods are not all that common. You can find them through camera dealers who stock Tiffen filters. The tripods are in the same catalog. D & S tripods are lighter than Bogen tripods, so they do not feel as rock solid, but users are happy with them nonetheless. They feature fast to open twist-to-unlock legs. One drawback with this mechanism is that you cannot tell if the legs are locked by glancing at them. Heads feature easy-to-use quick release mechanisms. Model RTS is no frills, solid, lightweight (4.75 lbs, 2.2k), and fast to open. Its fully-extended height of 67" (1.72m) is not as tall as the Bogen 3021. [Editor's note: I'm 6'3" (2m) and the Bogen is a better fit.] Owners find this tripod plenty sturdy even with heavy scopes and seem to be universally happy with it. If you are tall and want a lighter tripod than the Bogen, you should consider the Davis & Sanford Magnum. The Magnum is more expensive, taller (69", 1.77m), and slightly heavier (5.5 lbs, 2.5k) than the RTS. You can screw in the rubber feet to expose spikes for extra stability. The two-piece legs are independently adjustable, but are not as adjustable as those on Bogen tripods. Birders will probably want one of two heads: the RTH1 video head and the more expensive RTH2 camera head. The single-handled RTH2 can tilt to the side which the double-handled RTH1 cannot. If you intend the tripod for a scope only and not to double as a camera tripod, the RTH1 is probably the better head. Tips from users: moving the side handle from front to back on the RTH2 head may help horizontal stability. And wrapping the legs with rubber tape will prevent them from clanging audibly against the center post. Gitzo While primarily aimed at professional photographers who need stability for monster lenses (400mm+), Gitzo tripods have found some favor among birders. Model 341 (the Inter Pro Studex Rapid) is solid (7 lbs, 3.2k), good for tall birders, and well built. The Bogen fluid head fits this tripod. Drawbacks are that it is expensive (around US$300) and long (29", 75cm) when collapsed. 3.2 Monopods A monopod is not a replacement for a tripod. However, a monopod is an option when weight and bulk are factors. When I travel by air, I pack a monopod, scope, and binocs into my briefcase along with the appropriate field guides, leaving my hands free for luggage and portable computer. Monopods lack stability (especially in the wind) and have only limited height (I perch mine on a rock where possible). 3.3 Finnsticks A finnstick is literally a stick, usually with a fork at one end, which you use to hold your binoculars at eye-level, allowing you to keep your arms down. Consequently, you keep your view steadier for longer periods. Finnsticks are useful in any endurance situation: hawk watching, sea watching, and pelagic trips. These sticks originated in Finland where they are called staijikeppi (pronounced: stah-yeeh kep-peeh). Most finnsticks are homemade (because they apparently have a proclivity for getting lost) from branches 1.5-2 inches (4-6cm) in diameter, 2-3 feet (60-100cm) in length, with a natural fork in one end. This fork, with perhaps a little carving, fits under the center barrel of the binoculars. 3.4 Shoulder Stocks A shoulder stock is device similar to the stock of a gun, on which you mount a scope or camera. Some people prefer a shoulder stock for its mobility and portability. They are excellent for following the path of a moving bird; however, the scope is only as steady as your arm and your arm will get tired quickly. 3.5 Window Mounts Several manufacturers make scope mounts that slide over and fasten to a car window. These are useful for birding impoundments and fields accessible by car. Although handy, they transfer all vibrations from the car to the scope, so you have to turn off the car and they also can take infuriatingly long to attach to the window. An alternative is a small (usually homemade) bean bag that rests on top of the window (or car roof, boulder, limb). See the Dec 1992 _Birding_ for more details. 4. Ratings and Comparisons 4.1 Binocular Comparison Chart (ABA Sales Catalog -- Fall 1994) =============================================================== Weight FOV at Close Eye Model Size (oz) 1000 yds Focus Relief Finish -------------------- ------ ------ -------- -------- ------- ------------ B & L Elite 10x42 28 294 ft 11-12 ft 17 mm rubber armor Bushnell Natureview 10x42 25 320 ft 13 ft 19 mm rubber armor Leica ULTRA 10x42 31 330 ft 14 ft 17 mm polyurethane Swarovski SLC 10x42 30 330 ft 12 ft 10 mm polyurethane Swift Ultra Lite 10x42 21 346 ft 15 ft 13 mm rubber armor B & L Custom 10x40 28.5 273 ft 10-12 ft 17 mm rubber armor Zeiss Dialyt B/GA T* 10x40 26.8 330 ft 15 ft 15 mm rubber armor Swift Audubon ED 8.5x44 29.3 430 ft 12 ft 14.5 mm unarmored Swift Audubon 8.5x44 29 430 ft 13 ft 15 mm unarmored B & L Elite 8x42 29 368 ft 10-12 ft 20 mm rubber armor Bushnell Natureview 8x42 26 341 ft 10 ft 19 mm rubber armor Leica ULTRA 8x42 31 390 ft 15 ft 18 mm polyurethane B & L Custom 8x36 23 341 ft 10-12 ft 17 mm unarmored Swarovski SLC WB 8x30 19 408 ft 10 ft 15 mm polyurethane Zeiss Dialyt B/GA T* 8x30 20.5 405 ft 13 ft 15 mm rubber armor Swarovski SLC 7x42 30 430 ft 12 ft 17 mm polyurethane Zeiss B/GA T* 7x42 28.2 460 ft 10-12 ft 18 mm rubber armor B & L Elite 7x36 25 420 ft 8 ft 20 mm rubber armor B & L Custom Compact 7x26 11 386 ft 10 ft 14 mm unarmored | 4.2 Better View Desired Reference Set (November 1994) | ===================================================== | | The following selections come from the November 1994 issue of _Better | View Desired_, Stephen Ingraham's newsletter devoted to evaluating | birding optics. The Reference Set is Stephen's list of optical | instruments to which all others should be compared. The set changes | from issue to issue and you should read the reviews to get a more | balanced view. You should subscribe to this publication if you are at | all serious about buying new equipment. See section 6 for subscription | information. | | These selections are in three categories: Reference Standard (RS), | products so outstanding that they set the performance standard for their | class; Best Buy (BB), products with outstanding performance at an | affordable price; and Products of Special Merit (PSM), products with | outstanding performance features, but with a mix of features to which | some birders might object. | | Best Overall Birding Binoculars: Leica Ultra 8X32 | | Compact Binoculars | | RS : Nikon Diplomat AS 8x23 | Runner-up : Bausch & Lomb Custom 7x26 | BB : Bausch & Lomb Legacy 8x24 | Minolta Compact 8x23 | Nikon Travelite 8x23 | Pentax UCF 8x24 | Swift Micron 8x25 | PSM : Nikon Diplomat AS 10x25 (exceptional resolution, limited FOV) | | Mid-sized Binoculars | | RS : Leica Ultra 8x32 | Runner-up : Optolyth Alpin 8x30 | BB : Celestron Ultra 8x30 | | Beginners and Budget | | RS : Bushnell Nature View 8X40 | BB : Celestron 7X50 Pro | | Full-sized 7x & 8x Binoculars | | RS : Zeiss 7X42 | Runner-up : Bausch & Lomb Elite 8X42 | BB : Swift Ultralite 8x42 | PSM : Swift Audubon 8.5X44 and 8.5X44ED | (exceptional resolution, bulky) | | High-power Binoculars | | RS : Swarovksi SLC 10x42 | Runner-up : Celestron 9.5X44ED | BB : Swift Ultralite 10x42 | | Conventional 50-60 mm Spotting Scopes (prismatic, right-reading image) | | RS : Nikon Fieldscope II ED | Runner-up : Kowa TS 614 | | Conventional 70-80 mm Spotting Scopes (prismatic, right-reading image) | | RS : Nikon Fieldscope 78mm ED | Runner-up : Swarovski ST80HD | | Refractor Scopes (right-reading, reversed image) | | RS : Tel Vue Pronto | | Catadioptric (or mirror) Scopes | RS : Questar Birder | BB : Celestron C90 Special Coatings | PSM : Celestron C5 (exceptional optical performance, especially | at high powers, somewhat bulky and heavy) | Zuka Scope (hand holdable Newtonian telescope with good | optics, somewhat crude execution) 4.3 Living Bird (Binoculars -- Autumn 1992) =========================================== [Thanks to Sid Johnson for this report from "Binocular Quest", _Living Bird_, Autumn '92, T. Culver and H. Gerhart. All prices in US dollars.] Suggested List Prism Model Price $US Type Armor? Warranty Over US$800: * Bausch & Lomb Elite 10x42 $1,956 Roof Yes Limited Lifetime * Bausch & Lomb Elite 8x42 $1,900 Roof Yes Limited Lifetime * Bausch & Lomb Elite 7x36 $1,704 Roof Yes Limited Lifetime * Leica Ultra 10x42 BA $1,590 Roof Yes Lifetime * Leica Ultra 8x42 BA $1,590 Roof Yes Lifetime Nikon Classic Eagle 8x40 DFC $1,232 Roof No 25-year Limited * Zeiss Dialyt 10x40 B/GAT $1,250 Roof Yes Lifetime * Zeiss Dialyt 7x42 B/GAT $1,215 Roof Yes Lifetime US$500-US$800: aus Jena Luxus 10x40 $775 Roof No Limited Lifetime Bausch 7 Lomb Custom 10x40 $528 Porro Yes Limited Lifetime Nikon Execulite 9x30 $567 Roof No 25-year Limited * Nikon E CF HP 8x30 $512 Porro No 25-year Limited * Optolyth Touring 10x40 $608 Roof Yes Limited Lifetime Swift Audubon 7x35 $600 Roof Yes Lifetime US$200-US$500: Celestron Ultima 10x42 $350 Porro No Limited Lifetime Celestron Ultima 8x32 $350 Porro No Limited Lifetime Minolta Weathermatic 7x42 $406 Roof Yes 25-year Limited Optolyth Alpin 10x40 $360 Porro Yes Limited Lifetime Optolyth Alpin 7x42 $360 Porro Yes Limited Lifetime Optolyth Alpin 8x30 $298 Porro No Limited Lifetime Pentax DCF 8x42 $375 Roof No Original Owner Pentax PCF 7x50 $220 Porro No Original Owner Pentax PCF 7x35 $200 Porro No Original Owner Redfield WP 10x50 $407 Roof Yes Limited Lifetime Redfield WP 7x35 $361 Roof Yes Limited Lifetime Swift Audubon 8.5x44 $399 Porro No Lifetime * Swift Ultra Lite 8x42 ZWCF $345 Porro Yes Lifetime Swift Egret 10x42 HCF $288 Roof Yes Lifetime Under US$200: * Bushnell Birder 7x35 $75 Porro No Limited Lifetime Minolta Standard 7x35 $141 Porro Yes 25-year Limited Compacts: * Bausch & Lomb Custom Compact 7x26 $457 Rev. Porro No Limited Lifetime Leica 10x25 BCA $645 Roof Yes Limited Lifetime Leica 8x20 BCA $615 Roof Yes Limited Lifetime Minolta Pocket 7x21 $137 Rev. Porro No 25-year Limited Minolta Compact 8x23 $132 Rev. Porro No 25-year Limited Nikon Travelite III 9x25 $156 Rev. Porro No 25-year Limited Pentax UCF 8x24 $160 Rev. Porro No Limited Lifetime Redfield 8x24 $210 Roof No Limited Lifetime Swift Micron 8x25 CF $120 Rev. Porro No Limited Lifetime Zeiss Design Selection 8x20 BT $530 Roof No 25-year * Top rated Play of Interpupil Good for Weight Focus Model Distance Eyeglasses? (ounces) (degrees) Over US$800: * Bausch & Lomb Elite 10x42 2-3/16" - 2-7/8" 2 28.1 400 * Bausch & Lomb Elite 8x42 2-3/16" - 2-7/8" 1 29.1 400 * Bausch & Lomb Elite 7x36 2-3/16" - 2-7/8" 1 25.4 400 * Leica Ultra 10x42 BA 2-3/16" - 2-7/8" 2 32.0 330 * Leica Ultra 8x42 BA 2-3/16" - 2-7/8" 2 32.0 330 Nikon Classic Eagle 8x40 2-1/8" - 2-13/16" 2 28.2 190 * Zeiss Dialyt 10x40 B/GAT 2-3/16" - 3" 2 26.4 330 * Zeiss Dialyt 7x42 B/GAT 2-1/4" - 2-15/16" 1 28.2 450 US$500-US$800: aus Jena Luxus 10x40 2-3/16" - 2-7/8" 3 24.6 270 Bausch 7 Lomb Custom 10x40 2-1/4" - 2-13/16" 2 30.9 460 Nikon Execulite 9x30 2-3/16" - 2-7/8" 4 16.7 630 * Nikon E CF HP 8x30 1-7/8" - 2-7/8" 2 20.0 330 * Optolyth Touring 10x40 2-1/8" - 3" 2 24.0 410 Swift Audubon 7x35 2-1/4" - 3-1/16" 2 21.0 460 US$200-US$500: Celestron Ultima 10x42 2" - 2-7/8" 2 19.7 360 Celestron Ultima 8x32 2" - 3" 2 17.4 370 Minolta Weathermatic 7x42 2-1/4" - 2-7/8" 1 29.1 270 Optolyth Alpin 10x40 2" - 2-3/4" 4 18.2 690 Optolyth Alpin 7x42 2" - 2-3/4" 2 18.1 690 Optolyth Alpin 8x30 2" - 2-3/4" 4 14.9 690 Pentax DCF 8x42 2-1/4" - 2-7/8" 2 31.0 360 Pentax PCF 7x50 2-3/16" - 2-3/4" 2 31.8 590 Pentax PCF 7x35 2-3/16" - 2-3/4" 3 24.3 560 Redfield WP 10x50 2-3/8" - 3-1/16" 3 28.6 170 Redfield WP 7x35 2-5/16" - 3-1/16" 2 20.5 170 Swift Audubon 8.5x44 2-1/8" - 3-1/4" 2 28.9 460 * Swift Ultra Lite 8x42 ZWCF 2" - 2-15/16" 2 21.0 370 Swift Egret 10x42 HCF 2-1/4" - 2-13/16" 4 18.3 320 Under US$200: * Bushnell Birder 7x35 2-3/16" - 2-7/8" 3 18.8 460 Minolta Standard 7x35 2-3/16" - 2-13/16" 3 26.8 270 Compacts: * B&L Custom Compact 7x26 2-1/4" - 3-1/8" 2 11.5 370 Leica 10x25 BCA 1-1/4" - 3-1/4" 4 8.8 740 Leica 8x20 BCA 1-1/4" - 3-1/4" 4 8.1 740 Minolta Pocket 7x21 1-3/8" - 2-3/4" 4 9.7 350 Minolta Compact 8x23 2-1/4" - 2-7/8" 4 8.8 340 Nikon Travelite III 9x25 2-1/8" - 2-7/8" 4 9.4 350 Pentax UCF 8x24 2-3/16" - 2-15/16" 4 9.9 590 Redfield 8x24 1-3/8" - 3-1/16" 4 9.6 270 Swift Micron 8x25 CF 2-1/4" - 2-13/16" 4 10.1 740 Zeiss Design Selection 8x20 1-1/4" - 2-7/8" 4 6.4 350 * Top rated Numeric Ratings: 1 to 5, 1 is best Optical Min. Field of Focus Bright- Perfor- Focus View at Model Feel ness mance Dist. 230' Fog Over US$800: * Bausch & Lomb Elite 10x42 1 2 1 11' 23.8' N * Bausch & Lomb Elite 8x42 1 1 1 10.5' 27.5' N * Bausch & Lomb Elite 7x36 1 1 1 5' 30' N * Leica Ultra 10x42 BA 1 2 1 14' 20' N * Leica Ultra 8x42 BA 1 1 1 12' 20' N Nikon Classic Eagle 8x40 DFC 1 3 2 14.5' 27.5' N * Zeiss Dialyt 10x40 B/GAT 2 3 1 15' 20' N * Zeiss Dialyt 7x42 B/GAT 1 1 1 9.5' 30' N US$500-US$800: aus Jena Luxus 10x40 1 3 2 18' 20' N Bausch 7 Lomb Custom 10x40 1 3 2 12' 20' Y Nikon Execulite 9x30 1 5 2 11' 22.5' Y * Nikon E CF HP 8x30 1 2 1 11' 32.5' Y * Optolyth Touring 10x40 2 3 1 16' 27.5' Y Swift Audubon 7x35 2 2 2 10' 20' N US$200-US$500: Celestron Ultima 10x42 1 2 2 15' 23.8' Y Celestron Ultima 8x32 2 4 3 12' 30' Y Minolta Weathermatic 7x42 1 3 3 12' 25' N Optolyth Alpin 10x40 1 3 3 14' 25' Y Optolyth Alpin 7x42 1 5 3 27' 25' N Optolyth Alpin 8x30 1 5 3 13' 32.5' Y Pentax DCF 8x42 1 5 3 24' 27.5' N Pentax PCF 7x50 2 1 3 15' 22.5' Y Pentax PCF 7x35 2 3 4 7' 25' Y Redfield WP 10x50 2 4 3 24.5' 22.5' N Redfield WP 7x35 2 4 3 10.5' 25' N Swift Audubon 8.5x44 1 3 2 10.5' 31.25' Y * Swift Ultra Lite 8x42 ZWCF 1 2 2 16' 20' N Swift Egret 10x42 HCF 1 5 3 14' 25' N Under US$200: * Bushnell Birder 7x35 2 2 3 13' 22.5' Y Minolta Standard 7x35 2 3 3 12.5' 32' Y Compacts: * Bausch & Lomb Custom Comp. 7x26 1 1 2 6' 27.5' Y Leica 10x25 BCA 3 4 3 16' 20' N Leica 8x20 BCA 3 4 4 8' 26.3' N Minolta Pocket 7x21 2 4 5 6' 26.3' N Minolta Compact 8x23 2 3 5 21' 25' Y Nikon Travelite III 9x25 2 2 3 12' 20' Y Pentax UCF 8x24 3 2 5 8.5' 25' N Redfield 8x24 2 4 5 14.5' 28.5' N Swift Micron 8x25 CF 2 3 4 6' 20' Y Zeiss Design Selection 8x20 BT 2 3 4 8' 25' Y * Top rated Numeric Ratings: 1 to 5, 1 is best 5. Sources for Optical Equipment ================================ If you belong to a buying service, try that first. One example: B & L Elite 22 x 60 scope, list: US$750, best mailorder: US$400, buying service: US$200. Several credit cards offer buying services. Another buying service that is somewhat widespread throughout the US is United Consumers Club. Also, check the New York City mail order sources that advertise in the back of Popular/Modern Photography. Be aware, however, that these places often carry what are known as foreign market or grey market goods. These are products produced for sale in countries other than the US. Sometimes these products are manufactured to different specifications; sometimes they are identical. In any case, you will not have any US warranty on the goods and may not get any frills either (carrying case, strap, etc.). The prices are appealing, but caveat emptor. Mail order purchases from New York discounters can be practical from outside the US. Many Australasian netters have successfully ordered from B & H. You typically pay about US$50 extra for insurance and express mail. Even with the extra costs, your price may be considerably less than the best locally available discount price. In Australasia, this is typically about 2/3 of the best local price, assuming you pay import duty (in Australia) or GST (in New Zealand). These taxes appear to be random; you may not be charged. If you travel overseas and can purchase duty-free, then the price difference is much smaller, and you may want to deal locally for the convenience of service and repair. With your order comes an international guarantee, but you must ship your purchase to your local distributor in the event that you need to use it. Before buying any mail order optics, you should read the Mail Order Survey that Douglas Blondin (blondin@blanca.att.com) maintains. He posts this survey, listing experience with most of national photographic and optics stores, about once a month on rec.photo and rec.video. The sci.astro newsgroup is a good place to ask about optics suppliers. On this group, you will also find the Purchasing Amateur Telescopes FAQ that Ronnie B. Kon (ronnie@cisco.com) maintains. Birders often sell optical equipment as they upgrade to newer models. Generally every issue of _Winging It_, the newsletter of the American Birding Association, has offers of used equipment. Suppliers ========= ABA Sales (Colorado Springs CO) 800-634-7736, 719-578-0607, 800-590-2473 (fax), 719-578-9705 (fax) -- This is the sales organization of the American Birding Association. They do a great job of stocking items for birders. Their optics selection is good and their prices are becoming more competitive. You cannot ask for better service. ABA members get discounts. The catalog has many useful comparisons of optical equipment. ABA Sales now stocks replacement parts for Bogen tripods and heads. | Adorama Camera (New York NY) 800-223-2500 -- primarily a camera shop, | they have a good supply of birding optics. Extremely low prices, | good advice over the phone. B & H (New York NY) 800-221-5662, 212-807-7474 -- "I have bought tons from B&H...highly approved of by the pros who haunt rec.photo.... They're honest, don't bait and switch, add garbage pieces, tell you how much everything including shipping will cost, when you'll get it, etc.... Their prices run slightly higher than some other NY mail-order houses but honesty and fairness make it worthwhile." Christopher's Ltd (Norman OK) 800-356-6603 -- "primarily an astronomy-oriented optical dealer, but good selection, decent prices, and top-notch advice on many spotting scope options." Their prices are a bit higher than some, but they offer a 30 day return policy (subject to a 15% restocking fee). They have a catalog with much useful information about birding optics, including recommendations about which spotting scopes work best as telephoto lenses. City Camera (Dearborn MI) 800-359-5085, 313-846-3922 -- They have a birder on staff, and have a helpful flyer and specification. Eagle Optics (Madison WI) 800-289-1132, 608-271-4751 -- "really helpful", birding specialists Executive Photo (New York NY) 800-223-7323, 212-947-5290 -- avoid, based on many negative comments | Los Angeles Audubon Society Bookstore (West Hollywood CA) 213-876-0202 | 213-876-7609 fax; telephone hours 09:00 - 16:00 Pacific Time; visiting | hours 10:00 - 16:00 Pacific Time -- while well known for their large | supply of birding literature, the LAAS bookstore does carry optics from | the major manufacturers. In the Los Angeles area, this would appear to | be an excellent resource for comparing optics head-to-head. No prices | published. | Mirakel Optical Co (West Coxsackie NY) -- long established and reputable | optics dealer; several readers have had them do satifactory repair work. | No phone number available at this time; address: 331 Mansion St, West | Coxsackie NY 12192 National Camera Exchange (Golden Valley MN) 800-624-8107, 612-546-6831 -- "helpful and straightforward; prices midway between Eagle or Christopher's and the NY camera stores; 30-day satisfaction guarantee; Kevin, the optics manager, was well-informed." Offers a free binocular buying guide. Orion (Santa Cruz CA) 800-447-1001 -- large selection of interest to birders. Prices are fairly high, and service varies depending on who you talk to. Orion is now on the Internet: sales@oriontel.com. | S.A. Wentling Co (Hershey PA) (717) 533-2468 -- carries a large variety | from all major manufacturers; they claim discount prices. 6. Useful Reference Material ============================ | _Better View Desired_, Whole Life Systems, P.O. Box 162, Rehoboth, NM | 87322, publisher Stephen Ingraham, (505) 863-4751 voice and fax. | Subscriptions are US$15 per year (4 issues); International subscriptions | are US$25 payable in US funds. Stephen will send a free sample issue upon | request. The following back issues are available for $4 each: | | Nov 92 High-powered Binoculars | Feb 93 Refractor Spotting Scopes | Apr 93 Budget and Beginner's Binoculars | Aug 93 Full-Sized 7 and 8x Birding Binoculars | Nov 93 Catadioptric Scopes | Feb 94 Compact Binoculars | May 94 Redefining the Better View, Nikon Diplomat, Swift Audubon ED, | Leica Ultra 8x32 | Aug 94 Big New Scopes, Swarovski HD, Fujinon ED, Nikon 78ED | Nov 94 New Roof Prism Binos, Swarovski, WindRiver, Bird Worthy Binoculars | | Ingraham, "Bird Worthy Binoculars", _Better View Desired_, November 1994. | Read this essay before buying any new optics. Culver and Gerhart, "Binocular Quest", _Living Bird_, Autumn 1992. _Birding_ (photo issue), February, 1989. See also the "Tools of the Trade" column in most issues. 7. Contributors =============== Thanks to the following individuals who have helped with this FAQ: Bob Atkins, Don Baccus, Stephen Baker, David Braddon-Mitchell, Mike Burger, Byron Butler, Dwight Chasar, Dalcio Dacol, Richard Ditch, Derk Drukker, Mark Eckenwiler, Al Eisner, Dave Eshbaugh, Annika Forsten, Jay Freeman, Tom Frillman, L. Gorbet, David Graham, Burton Guttman, Stephen Ingraham, Sid Johnson, Frank Kolwicz, Tony Lang, Laurie Larson, Tom Lathrop, Harry Lehto, Kevin McGowan, Joe Morlan, Peter Nurkse, Jeff Price, Paul Rakow, David Rintoul, Rocky Rothrock, Daan Sandee, Sandy Santra, Frank Suits, Brian Townes, Tim Walker, Adrian Wander, Steve Willner, Rainer Woitok, David Wright [I apologize to anyone I have inadvertently left out -- let me know.] -- Ed Matthews Internet: edm@aib.com AIB Software Voice: (703) 430-9247 46030 Manekin Plaza Fax: (703) 450-4560 Dulles, Virginia 20166-6518 USA "Never play leapfrog with a unicorn" -- Ed Matthews Internet: edm@aib.com AIB Software Voice: (703) 430-9247 46030 Manekin Plaza Fax: (703) 450-4560 Dulles, Virginia 20166-6518 USA